The John Lobb brand is among the most renowned manufacturers in the British shoemaking hub of Northampton, a city that became famous as a core of the shoe industry in the seventeenth century. Although Hermes Group has owned the company since 1976, the factory remains committed to the methods developed in the 19th century.
Technology is used, but sparingly. Specifically, lasers are not used to cut leather. Instead, plastic patterns are made, which are handed to specialized artisans called clickers. Their title comes from the clicking sound of the knife striking the cutting table. With feather knives, they cut the hides manually.
Production is intentionally small, with only roughly 450 to 500 pairs made each week. This approach gives the sense of one-of-a-kind production. Employees work on multiple models daily, instead of repeating one routine step like in assembly-line workshops. Every shoe is built with Goodyear welting, allowing the worn sole to be changed without damaging the upper.
Similar to Hermes, John Lobb uses exceptional materials, particularly from young French calf hides. Only 60% of each hide is appropriate for main shoe parts, while the remainder becomes supporting details.
The range combines timeless classics with modern updates. The City II black Oxfords, for instance, now feature a sleeker silhouette. The Sennen shoes gained longer straps and a thicker sole. The Lopez classic, introduced in 1950, were updated with new colors and rubber soles. Newer icons include the Porth trainers and the Levah sneakers, which are released each season in different shades and textures.
Through its balance of heritage and innovation, John Lobb continues to be one of the pillars in English shoemaking.
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