John Lobb shoemakers is one of the leading manufacturers in the British shoemaking hub of Northampton, a city that became famous as a core of the shoe industry in the 17th century. Although Hermes Group has owned the company since 1976, the factory remains committed to the traditional production process developed in the 19th century.
Although machinery exists, tradition dominates. For instance, lasers are not used to cut leather. Instead, plastic patterns are made, which are handed to skilled cutters known as clickers. Their title comes from the characteristic snap of the knife touching the cutting table. With special blades, they shape the leather in the old-fashioned way.
Production is carefully restricted, with only no more than five hundred pairs made each week. This approach resembles bespoke work. Employees often handle many designs in a single day, instead of repeating one routine step like in mass-production plants. Every shoe is built with the Goodyear method, allowing the soles to be replaced without damaging the upper.
In line with Hermes, John Lobb uses exceptional materials, particularly from six-month-old French calves. Only about sixty percent is suitable for cutting, while the remainder becomes supporting details.
The collection combines iconic staples with contemporary tweaks. The City II black Oxfords, for instance, have been given a more elegant outline. The Sennen model gained elongated straps and a more robust foundation. The Lopez model, introduced in the mid-20th century, received subtle color and sole innovations. Newer icons include the Porth trainers and the Levah sneakers, which are produced yearly in various colors and materials.
Through its balance of heritage and innovation, John Lobb continues to be a benchmark in world-class shoemaking.
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